The market by the river looked almost like a giant ship; bread and meats at one tip, flowers at the other, and in between an oblong mass of tables with their stacks of fruits and vegetables. Early summer meant a surplus of cherries, though not the sour kind, and strawberries, though the rains had battered them somewhat and those sections of the sellers’ tables evoked butchering stations, even if they smelled considerably better.
My oversized plastic shopping bags grew heavier by the kilogram as I picked up garden tomatoes, bananas freckled like little girls who’d gotten too much sun, paper-covered onions the color of topazes, and gracile if somewhat muddied carrots, all punctuated by a series of eggplants suggesting purple cartoon commas.
The wealth of local farmers filled my bags until the plastic handles dug into my palms and made deep pink paths slick with sweat. I’d saved the less appealing part, for my taste anyway, till last, and hustled down the side of the crowd, frequently interrupted by an errant local stepping five feet back from the merchandise as if the berth afforded a better appraisal of zucchini or chard. Half way down the deck, at last, I found the little cement enclave on top of which had been a sign advertising fresh fish.
In a not-quite-landlocked country, in a town about as far from the coast as you can get, in a place where every store selling every thing all the time hasn’t exactly caught on just yet, fresh fish isn’t easy. I’d asked at shops all around the city, and had been directed to more places than I could pronounce in a sitting, but half the time “fresh” was interpreted as frozen-yet-not-to-the-point-of-qualifying-for-inclusion-in-an-ancient-species-museum-exhibit or else the destination was a “hypermarket,” about as appealing an experience as hanging out at the airport for an hour and a half.
But this little seafood bastion in the market by the river promised to be different; it was small, and close by, and most importantly, almost totally ignored by everyone else. I left my bulking bags outside and edged into the tiny shop, which might have been a bathroom for a larger store next door at some point. Tiles once white and now progressing steadily towards ochre lined the walls, floor, and ceiling, and a couple chests of frozen fish were shoved in no particular order to the right. Beside them, a giant plastic bucket held a few gallons of water and a few more live catfish than could fit, and a somehow pristine glass display case full of variously prepared seafoods installed to the left completed the store’s contents.
Except for a broad metal sink at the back, in front of which was a small chair, upon whose splintered seat was perched the fishseller. In thoughtful repose. A woman somewhere close to forty, decorated with the signs of insecurity that seem to accompany the age: short hair complaining of peroxide, pink lipstick plucked from the pages of an Avon catalog, foundation creating facial crusts where slight wrinkles lurked breathless beneath, and the kind of smile that comes from knowing too much too late, a kind of emotional sportsmanship.
She sat, legs crossed, and grasped a poached egg sporting crumpled toilet paper at the base; a tiny silver spoon dove in and out of the viscous yellow and white within the shell, and there, in the tiny store, surrounded by the unease of faint splashing sounds and the smell of this attempt to bottle the sea, the woman slowly ate her runny egg while my skin begged to crawl away and seek its refuge back in the potatoes and cabbages.
Asking in an uneven voice about the possibility of fresh-cut salmon steaks, I’m given a tour of the many different kinds of products I don’t want, and settle finally for marinated mackerel rolled up with sliced white onions and bay. I pay for my parcel –the least likely item in the shop to consist of fish still or recently living, and make my way, only slightly more weight-impeded, to the line of lazy taxicabs, shipping home for a celebration of the joys of local markets –and a haunting of their unexpected horrors.
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I Know Something You Don’t Know
In any culture, through any language, I don’t think a single child has managed to escape the sentiment in a sing-song sort of voice, pronounced with a universal glee by little peers so pleased with the artifice of wisdom that either their cheeks hurt from smiling, or their toes hurt from curling, or both. It’s the kind of neener-neener glee that somehow, despite the strokes of time, experience, and the supposed maturity that comes with these things, seems to stick with people as they age, possibly like visceral fat. Or if you prefer, the particular comforting taste of grandmother’s cookie recipe (though I’m not convinced the two aren’t connected).
“I-know-something-you-don’t know,” so the taunt goes, although it mutates in time to take on any number of cheap and shiny disguises, and these manage to fool a fair amount of people, sometimes on a cyclical track that makes the grind of nine-to-five work look like nothing special. From its overt beginnings on the school grounds, the notion moves to media, and trickles back into the social floatsam when the bright lights of advertising lose a bulb or two. You’ll recognize it easily should you come across the sales pages, squeeze pages, landing pages, bonus pages, or any of the pages possibly attributable to internet marketing, that modern translation of the late-night infomercial the production of which has unfortunately been made accessible to just about anything with an ISP and a drool bucket.
Among the great “secrets” of this “secret” “methodology” is to, well, insist that you know the secret. To a problem that people have, whether it’s a lack of cash, a lack of libido, an excess of appetite, an attachment to some substance, or whatever else tends to stubbornly ail the population at large as it steadfastly ignores its ultimate issue of stagnant, bored defeatism. Promise people that you’ve found the answer and are holding it at arm’s reach, just past the point of payment, and they will get their wallets out, so the idea goes. And it works.
Far from being limited to the consumer magic of the internet, however, the fabrication of the mysterious need not be sought much father than a fetid fast food joint or sauce bottle. Now, I can understand why fast food places would want to keep their constituents mysterious. I’m not so sure why sauces get the same treatment, but maybe people assume they have to give you something extra if you’re buying a product without solids in it. I, for one, could go for a free sauce surprise, sorta like the old Cracker Jacks gimmick, with a toy soldier or a little pea-shooter in the Bearnaise. Anyway, the ages-old allure of the “secret ingredient” looms in many an overpriced mouthful, sating people’s desire to be let in, if only a little, on what the other kids know, if not sating their actual hunger.
People concoct more than over-the-counter items and re-hashed words of advice to masquerade as secrets, though. Entire experiences, statuses, and relationships have been used to perpetuate the separation of people in those parts of life where nature didn’t see fit to make the distinction itself. From tight-lipped initiates in the Eleusinian Mysteries to military people fond of citing “clearance,” from the creation of a complicated handshake to the small dictionary of exotic yet paradoxically uninspired nouns of Scientology, we march on, making up secret shit, in flavors only slightly removed from the simple taste of that old childhood taunt.
Yet the self is somehow not included in this popular system of secrets. The idea that someone might know exactly who they are, but is keeping it from you (neener neener!) sounds preposterous. In general, people seem to cling to one of two totems when it comes to the mystery of the self. Either they have no idea about their own identity, and are only too happy to subscribe to lovesong lyrics proposing that a partner knows them better than they know their own self, or else they spend the majority of their free time coming up with contrived ways to “express” themselves to others.
You would think that if there was one great secret truly worth knowing, and truly worth rubbing in the faces of the other kids, it’d be the mystery of your own identity, the essence of who you are. Isn’t that, after all, a thing more powerful than a secret program to quit smoking, seeing as it’s you who carries it out? Isn’t that, after all, more interesting than a spice you’ll savor once or twice and pass through this very self of yours? And isn’t it more valuable than the knowledge of another being, supreme or not, whom you would worship with this self?
I say it is. And that isn’t just some secret I was told.